Day 29 The running of the cows

Day	29
Date	Oct 7
Start	Tricastela
End	Sarria
Distance	21km
Elevation+-	900ft
Sleep	Hostel la Casona

Its about 20c colder on this side of the mountains so we are having to gear up for cold the first time. Have not given up on removable pant legs yet.

Walking through cattle country today.  Farmers were moving their cows home from the pastures. No horses just farmers on foot and dogs.

The path has high hedges so the cows stay on course.  It also makes it hard to get out of the way in some places.

Stating in a nice 3 room hotel. View from the room.

Day 28 Galicia

Day	28
Date	Oct 6
Start	Les Herrerias
End	Tricastela
Distance	33km
Elevation+-	3600ft
Sleep	Complexo Xacobeo

Crossing over into the region of Galcia today. Our last high mountain pass. Galcia is a semi autonomous territory with a Celtic culture. It is also a different climate zone. Wet cool and foggy due to the influence of the ocean. We were hit with fog and rain at the border.

The first village after the border is the home of Elias Sampedro the priest that marked the current trail in the 60s. He is the father of the modern version of the camino.

He died in 1989.  Pilgrims stop by his grave by the church and thank him for the yellow arrows they keep us from getting lost a 100 times a day.

Day 27. Back in the mountains

Day	27
Date	Oct 5
Start	Villafranca del Bierzo
End	Les Herrerias
Distance	21km
Elevation+-	700ft
Sleep	Casa Lixa

Today's path followed a mountain river valley. It was a steady uphill but not too difficult. 

9th century castle.
It was already abandoned in the 12th century when the Codex was written.

Got to see an ancient roman bridge.

We are staying in a tiny picturesque village.  View from our room.

When you stay in these little isolated places you eat a pilgrim's meal.

A pilgrim's meal is a large 3 course meal of whatever the host is cooking. Pilgrims meals are about getting carbs for the next day.

Food quality ranges from excellent to "don't complain".

Breakfast is its own story.

...and so are tapas...

Day 26 Bierzo DO

Day	26
Date	Oct 4
Start	Ponferrada
End	Villafranca del Bierzo
Distance	25
Elevation+-	200
Sleep	Las Donas del Portazgo

Today's walk took us thru the Bierzo micro climate. It has a reputation for excellent wines. The area is a valley surrounded by mountains. We had a glass of local wine on the trail. It made the last 12km tough but it was worth it.

Spain has a million acres of land used for wine production and yet they are not really into exporting.... 

Day 25 Cruz de Hierro

Day	25
Date	Oct 3
Start	Rabanal de Camino
End	Ponferrada
Distance	35km
Elevation+-	3000ft

Crossed the highest point on the camino. At the highest point we each thru a stone we carried from home as is the tradition.

The trail was high, steep and challenging.

At our destination there is a Knights Templer castle.  The Knights Templers job was to protect pilgrims.

Templars also inspire a lot current day crazy. Free Masons, National Treasure, The Da Vinci Code.....

Day 24 Foothills

Day	24
Date	Oct 2
Start	Astorga
End	Rabanal de Camino
Distance	21km
Elevation+-	1200ft

Today we transitioned from the plains to the forest and mountains. Uphill all day but not too steep.

Staying in a 6 room hostel near a small village.

There is an active Benedict monastery in town. You can hang out with the monks for 2 days if you're okay with not talking during the stay.

Rumour has it the monks do vespers sometimes. I did not find out when\if they do them.  Figuring out what non-talkative German monks are up to in rural Spain isn't easy.

Day 23 Gaudi

Day	23
Date	Oct 1
Start	Hospital de Orbigo
End	Astorga
Distance	15km
Elevation+-	750ft
Sleep	Via de la Plata

Today we finished the meseta section after 10 days.  Tomorrow we will be back in the mountains. You can see the mountains in the background.

The highlight of today was Guadi's Palace of the Bishop. Gaudi is best known for his masterpiece  Sagrada Famila in Barcelona. The palace is set behind a roman wall and next to the city cathedral.

 View from our hotel room.

The obligatory picture by a statue.

Day 22 None shall pass.

Day	22
Date	Sep 30
Start	Leon
End	Hospital de Orbigo
Distance	37km
Elevation+-	250m

Longest day today. 9 hours of walking.

I was asked to provide photo evidence Jayne is still alive.

Where we are staying is best known for its bridge and what happened on the bridge in 1434. Many versions of the story exist but this is the jist of it.

A knight named Don Suero falls in love with a girl and is rejected. Suero goes to the bridge and challenges anyone who wants to use the bridge to a fight. After laying beatings on locals for awhile knights start challenging Soero to joists. Soero wins so many joists he becomes one of the most famous knights in Europe.

Eventually Soero gets over his lost love and lets the people use the bridge again.  

Joists continue by the bridge to this day.